Composition & Perspective in photography. Correct techniques for excellent photos

We live in three-dimensional world and transferring this 3D world to the plane image means cutting off our reality! You can not show the real world correctly if you do not obey certain rules. You need to have knowledge of the laws of the Composition in photography, otherwise your photography hobby will be only meaningless pushing the shutter button and your photos will not be interesting for anyone.

In order to make beautiful, bright, colourful, memorisable photos, you need to know laws of the Composition, which came to us from painting. In addition to this, Composition in photography has its own tips and tricks. We will discuss all of this further in this article.

Advice.

Composition laws must be obeyed, but without fanaticism! Sometimes you may even breach them in order to get shots that are very different from one another.

Common sense of the good composed photo is when we looking at it with easiness and pleasure. We see logical connection between objects in the still and we like it! But, from the other point of view, sometimes photographer must break the rules of composition, in order to tell us about his creative idea and make us surprised!

Subject centre and balance in the image.

Every good photography must have some main object. For the sake of this main object photographer climbs to the top of the highest mountain, goes underwater, or travels to safari, or maybe just get relaxed at the friend’s BBQ and made a few shots. You may think about anything to be a centre of the image.

In order to shoot good image you need to find that centre of the main object. Then, you need to emphasize in your mind what is the most interesting for you. Maybe for the first time it will be difficult for you to pick up main centre and you will need to work out, using your imagination and looking around. But after some time of such training you will find interesting plots straight away.

You may also use “rule of the thirds”. This method almost always lets you achieve the success.

Meaning of this rule in the following:

Space of the still is divided by two horizontal and two vertical lines for equal parts. From the three horizontal and three vertical strips you get some sort of the grid with the points of intersection of those lines. If you place main important parts of your photo, for instance, line of the horizon, along any of the horizontal lines – you create the base for photo to be balanced. If you place your main object centre in one of the points of the intersection between vertical and horizontal lines – you will have competent and well balanced frame as a whole.

All minor lines must “lead” your look to the centre of the main object. Minor lines here are not only real lines, but also sequence of the objects or details located one after another. It is very good, if main object of shooting stands out from the background by its contrast or light colours. If it is not the case – there is high possibility that viewer will find difficult to figure out – what is important on your photo, and your photo will be considered unreasonable and casual.

Also balance of the image and “weight” of the separate objects on the image is very important. Even objects’ colours have an effect on the objects themselves. For example, red colour and its hues are heavier, than blue; and bright colours heavier than dark colours.

Background objects must not prevent you from seeing the main centre. If your main object is dark, you need to choose lighter background and vice versa. And don’t forget about exposure corrections.

If photographer needs to change image composition, he can do this in few ways:

► choosing certain camera angle;

► choosing exposure correction;

► cropping;

► choosing right time to press shutter button;

► changing focal distance;

► choosing between portrait or landscape option;

► producing;

► using diagonals:

setting your main object matter on a diagonal will almost always make your photo more dynamic, move around the object and look for a diagonal with other objects in foreground or background.

How to choose the background.

Choosing the background is the one of the most important task in photography. You need to choose background in order to feel depth and perspective of the image.

Try to choose not very bright and many-coloured background, and pay attention to its illumination. If your main object located in the shade, don’t pick up for the background sunlit areas. It is better if background areas are bit darker, than the main object. Try to imagine and plan your composition, because you will shoot not only main object and closest background, but also objects located further and further to horizon. Pay attention to all lines which intersect each other and all background objects. Everything must be logically smooth, of course if you don’t want to make something funny or surrealistic.

Types of the Perspective in photography.

► Hue perspective – when objects, located further and further down at the background are slowly losing their colour and hue depth and seem melting away in distance.

► Linear perspective – when minor lines come together at the horizon and lead your look from foreground to the background and we can concentrate our attention on the important objects at the background.

► Pattern or rhythm– when there are similar objects on the still and they are gradually decreasing while moving away from point of the shooting.

► Foreground – when photographer places some objects at the foreground in order to make 3D depth to the picture as a whole.

If you make photos early morning hours, you may use this trick to help you make feeling of the depth and space in your photo – you may use haze – it will help you separate darker foreground and lighter background.

One of the most important aspect in photography – it is the “key moment”; it is, when you press the shutter button at the most significant moment!

And I may tell you from my experience that you may be waiting for this special moment for quite a long period of time.

But this is what separates professional photographers with their patience and mastery, and amateurs, who prefer just point and shoot! So, if you want to make really interesting photos, you need to learn, how to be patient and watch closely how the situation is developing and always be ready to press the shutter button!

How to select the right camera. Advices of the professional

Photographers have been asked very often the same question: “Which camera should I buy? And which camera is right for me?” And to my deepest regret, we do not have a single meaning answer to this simple question! For the beginning, you must clarify for yourself and answer these questions first:

1. Why do I want to buy a camera?
2. What do I want to make photos of?
3. What will I shoot in reality?

Only and only after answering these questions honestly, you may start selecting the camera in a meaningful way!

If you want only to upload “photos” into your computer and share with your friends via Internet – you will need one type of the camera, and it is very different thing, if you want to set this business up seriously, and make “photography”!


Algorithm of selection.

I suggest algorithm of selection the appropriate camera for your needs outlined below. These steps were tested many times by me and my friends and you may use it for every type of equipment. It is marketing investigation in essence.


1. The first step in this process and the most important one is – you think over thoroughly what the purpose of buying specific camera is and what kind of photos you want to shoot, what to shoot and – ATTENTION! – How often you will make photos!
Category of the camera you need to buy depends on the frequency of utilization!

Amateurs, who make photos from time to time, during holidays, for example, and making fewer than 400 shots per year, may easily find camera of their dream in the category of budget cameras.

2. The second step, and not less important. You have to determine what sum of money you are ready to spend for the camera, without making your family budget empty! And you need not exceed limits of this amount of money.

3. The third step, probably will take some of your precious time, but it will allow you to get irrefragable information and make the right decision. This step is all about gathering information. You may find tons of information on Internet these days about technical features of particular cameras you want. So, go to the websites and find camera, keep in mind amount of money you are allowed to spend. You need to pick up few cameras in approximately the same price range. You will need to compare them with one another. Some websites have the option of comparison – you definitely need to use this option! At the same time you need to find out more information about chosen cameras. So, go to the forum sites, chat sites and look for information that was left by people, who already used those cameras: you will find all comparable features, cameras PRO’S and CON’S, all capabilities. You may find not only opinions and judgements about cameras you chose, but also samples of photos, made, using those cameras.

The more information in Internet you will find – the easier choice for you to make which camera to buy. And you also may consider the option buying camera, using eCommerce, for example from US biggest retailer of the still cameras and camcorders www.bhphotovideo.com This option also will save you great amount of money!

Finally, we have got a clear idea and opted for two or three cameras from different company – manufacturers. But don’t run to the nearest shop or buy camera from Internet, yet! Here are few more questions you need to take under consideration. In my opinion, you have to make your priority to buy camera from:

- well-known manufacturer;
- with lenses with variable focal length (zoom);
- with variable angle LCD (for compact cameras);
- with flash, which has few shooting modes;
- with possibility of Spot AE Point mode;
- with handy and widely distributed power supplies.

Also, you must feel comfortable when you have camera in your hand.

4. The fourth step – it is actually making your decision and choice!
Just make a decision and opt certain model of the camera, being armed with all your knowledge and having deep understanding for what and why you have decided to buy exactly this model of the camera.

Notice

1. Some cameras may have shown minimal distance to the object of photography – it is useful when you will do MACRO shots.

2. Cameras with variable-angle LCD screen allow you to make photos from high or low angles such as at the eye-level of children or over the crowd at a concert.


If you make only photos of your family and your budget doesn’t allow you to buy expensive camera – digital compact cameras are your choice, like, for example:

SONY CYBER-SHOT range:
- DSCS930
- DSCS950
- DSCS980;

OLYMPUS range:
- FE - 370
- SP – 565UZ
- FE – 45

CANON PowerShot range:
- SX110 IS
- A2000 IS
- A1000 IS
- A1100 IS
- A2100 IS,

NIKON Coolpix range:
- P6000
- S710
- P5100

After some time, when you have got involved in creative photography, and you don’t like just point and shoot meaninglessly, maybe you will be able to choose DSLR with not very expensive set of lenses.

Later, you may change your not-expensive lenses for higher-quality lenses.

Another thing to consider is quality and uniqueness of your photos! It is true, that quality of your photos depends on quality of your camera, but the main thing is – it is you, who makes these photos. And you need to know how to shoot correctly. You need to know at least basics of composition, how to hold your camera and how to press shutter button! Your camera – it is only high - quality object, but it is you, who make those photos!

Advice

Finally, you have made a choice and bought camera, spent sound amount of money and you are happy because of your good photos. And to continue enjoying this, you must do service for your camera, in order to avoid some malfunctions.
There are special service packs for your camera in the photo shops. You need to buy one of them, don’t be afraid of spending some money for this! It is not a big amount! After buying one of those service packs, do service, time to time wiping camera’s lenses. Don’t do service, using your handkerchief or your clothing!

I hope after reading this article you have clearer understanding about which camera to buy! So, be involved in the world of wonders of creative photography!

Success in selling your photos online. Proven techniques

I have written this article to share my experience and knowledge with you, showing you what I am doing myself, because my friends and mates often ask me, how I keep earning extra money, selling my photos online and receiving money transfers for few hundred dollars each month. And I am confident that this information will give you not only something to think about, but also essential knowledge, how to make good money, selling your photos online, and maybe for someone will become turning point in choosing a professional career.

There is camera in each and every family – film or digital. Someone has it in his or her cupboard to get dusted, someone carries it everywhere and shoot everything. And who doesn't have the camera – make photos, using mobile phone. You have made photos of your wife, children, your mother – in – low, your dog, cat, house and your car. But, what next?

Don't you think that with the help of your photos, where you put your heart and soul, you can not only express yourself, share your experience and impressions, show yourself to the rest of the world, but also you can earn money!

Before getting started in selling your photos online you need to take under consideration few very important questions, like

1) identify your specialisation in photography – what you shoot most of the times: landscapes or architecture, portraits or nature, or something else;
2) search internet, using keywords, to look for the market for your niche and know who is your targeted audience: to make any profit you have to know whether someone buys photos you want to propose;
3) to be accepted in any niche you need to have appropriate knowledge of the subject – do you have this knowledge and skills?
4) also, for certain specialisations (portraits or studio photography), you have to consider buying special equipment, like tripods, spotlights, lenses...
5) you need to know your competitors and what you could propose to the market differently;
6) decide, whether you will work mainly in stock photo market, or go for assignments...

Stock photography is used by different companies for design, advertising and marketing and there is a great demand in quality photos. Stock photography can be anything from picture of the pen on your office desk to some sporting events. Getting started in this business is fast and easy process, like you upload your photos to FaceBook or Yahoo photo-album online, but you must follow certain guidelines in order to your photos be accepted and most important - bought! You also must have permissions to sell photos if there are recognisable people or houses with known names on your photos. Some photo-sites require small investment from your side – host needs to store and manage your photos and some of the sites give you even special software to organize and manage your business.

In this business you don't need to create website to store your photos. All is done for you and waiting!

There are many themes you may cover doing photography, for instance:
- sporting events;
- architecture;
- transport;
- office life;
- portraits;
- flora and fauna;
- insects....
you name it!

You can sell almost any type of photo you have made and earn money! Range of pricing for one photo is very wide – from $1 to $400 – it really depends on category of projects you work for, and uniqueness of your photos.
And how would you like to make a nice screen-saver using your photos! It's possible to earn money creating screen-savers too!

If you choose to work in assignment role – it means that you will be hired by someone to produce photo report of certain event, either sporting event, public speech or wedding, or something else. There are even services, that require photos from field investigations, like Police, City councils, and medical establishments.

And you must give your customers exactly what they want!

You don't need to buy expensive and fancy equipment, but to make photos of high quality you need to invest some money to have good return! In later articles we will go technical and discuss some issues about cameras and accessories for them.

You always have to think quality! If quality of your photos is not up to certain marks – you hardly ever will make income you want!

Selling photos is very profitable business and takes not long time and easy way to get started, but you must be dedicated and persistent in your desire of making it come true! I invite you to start earning money, selling your photos today, and have fun!

If you want to learn more about techniques of selling your photos on-line, there is great eBook that will make you practically an expert in this field: http://www.productsupplycenter.com/web241672

Photography. Very beginning. Main conceptions. Day 3

Light metering modes

Light metering - it is illumination or sunniness measuring of the object, which we want to make picture of. Exposure and quality of the future image highly depends on correct measurement of the light metering and you have to be very careful and treat this matter with great responsibility. If camera, you have, defines measurement type itself by default, probably it's not very expensive model, which will not allow you shoot excellent pictures in difficult light conditions.

What types of light measurement do we have?

Usually, there are three types of measurements.

For example, in common conditions, if all object is highlighted evenly, and there are no separate bright or dark areas, we use Evaluative Light Metering mode. In this mode the camera divides image into several zones for light metering. After that camera evaluates the complex lightning conditions, such as the position of the object, the brightness, the direct light, the background, and the backlighting, and adjusts the settings to the correct exposure for the main object. This mode is particularly well-suited for backlight conditions and general photography.

If you make portrait, you need to use Center – Weighted Averaging mode, when camera averages the exposure from the entire image, but places more weight on the subject at the center.

When you are shooting pictures at the theatre or ballet, for instance, when lights are down, and actor is lighted up, most useful in this case will be Spot AE Point mode. If you measure light through all of the area of the frame – you certainly will make it overexposed. When you work in difficult light conditions – you can't go without Spot AE Point mode.

Camera's auto modes

In many(if not all!) modern cameras provided auto modes, where pair of values – shutter speed & aperture set by the camera by default. When you change one value, another changes automatically, preserving correct exposure.

1. Av mode – Aperture priority

In this mode photographer specifies aperture and shutter speed changes automatically, according to the light conditions.

Advice

When doing portraits, you need to open aperture to values 2,8 or 4,0. When you are shooting
landscapes or interior – you need to close aperture to values 8 or 11, to get the best image sharpness.

2. Tv mode – Shutter Speed priority

Working with this mode, photographer sets the shutter speed, and aperture value changes automatically. Use this mode, while shooting images at the sport events. This mode also handy when you work with flash.

3. P – Program AE

Camera sets itself shutter speed & aperture. In some cameras photographer may change these pairs, controlling these changes in viewfinder.

4. M – Manual mode

In this mode everything depends on the photographer – you may set any values aperture – shutter speed and camera will advise you about correct light metering and what is the difference between necessary exposure and that, you have chosen.

Depth of field

With precise focusing on certain object there is always will be sharp not only that object in the image, but its surroundings. All other space can be blurry. And how much that surroundings will be blurry depends on Depth of field.

For example, if lens is focused on object, distant for 4 meters, and all other objects, located in front of that object and behind from 3 meters to 6 meters will be quite sharp – this area is depth of field.

Depth of field depends on chosen aperture. The more aperture is opened (values 2,8; 4), the smaller depth of field sharply pictured area. The more aperture is closed (values 5,6; 8; 11; 16), the more chances you have to get area with the same sharpness in front and behind the object.

Depth of field also depends on focal length. The more focal length has camera's lens, the longer lens, the smaller seeming depth of field.

For example, wide-angle lenses have practically sharp all image area, if you set aperture for values of 8 or 11 and focused lens for infinity. It is possible to focus lens on some hyperfocal point somewhere in the middle, and as a result – foreground and background will be sharp as well.

Advice

If you make photos at zoo through the cage, take long-focal lens, open aperture at maximum and come as close to the cage as possible. Focus your camera on the animal and cage will be gone to the blurred, almost invisible area.

With this article of Day 3 we finished our discussion about main conceptions in photography. After this, armed with the basic knowledge about cameras, we may continue our journey, and later we will talk about:

1. Right selection of the camera

2. Fundamentals of the composition in photography

3. Light and Colour in photography

4. How to use Flash in photography

5. How to shoot portraits

6. How to shoot landscapes and animate nature

7. How to do picture story

8. How to shoot images at night

9. How to make pictures of the sporting events

10. How to make photos at the theatre

11. How to store and organize your photo-archive

12. How to sell your photos online and earn pretty good revenue

and much more...

If you would like to learn more about photography from the top experts and sharpen your skills and become the master of photography, you will find all necessary information here http://www.cbmall.com/to/photowizard

Photography. Very beginning. Main conceptions. Day 2

Shutter speed
Shutter speed – it is shutter's opening time, during which image of the real world hits the matrix or film. Usually it is very short time and it is measured in fractions of a second and marked in this way:

Designation --------------- Fractions of a second

2 ---------------------------1/2

4 ---------------------------1/4

8 ---------------------------1/8

15 --------------------------1/15

30 --------------------------1/30

60 --------------------------1/60

125 ------------------------1/125

250 ------------------------1/250

500 ------------------------1/500

1000-----------------------1/1000

2000-----------------------1/2000

Advice

It is well known from the experience, that using shutter speed more than 1/30 of a second, photographer – beginner can get blurry image, because of shaking camera in inexperienced hands. In this case you should apply general rule for setting up the shutter speed:

In order to avoid getting blurred image, shutter speed must approximately correspond to focal distance of the lens or be even shorter.

For instance, for lens with focal distance 200 mm shutter speed must be no longer than 1/200, must be set to values of 200; 250; 500 or shorter.

If you work with lens that has 20 mm (wide-angle), you may shoot, using shutter speed 1/15 – 1/30 of a second and shorter, i.e. with values 15; 30; 60; 125.

It' s advice only, and if you hold your camera firmly in hands and push button smoothly – probably, you could make photos of people with lens 200 mm in focal distance and shutter speed 1/15 of a second. But in this case your picture will be blurry anyway, and this is due to the movements of the objects of your photo, in this example – people.

Exposure
Exposure – it is quantity of light, hitting the film or matrix, during opening time of the shutter, i.e. during the set time of the shutter speed and aperture.

Correct exposure – it is very important matter! It defines quality of the negative or file. If you shoot in “AUTO” settings – exposure computed by camera itself, measuring illumination of an object and comparing it with speed(sensitivity) of the film or matrix.

With the correct exposure we have the best quality of the image and photosensitive material reproduces all details, both in shades and spotlit areas. In the cases of mistakes – underexposure and overexposure – these details can be lost forever.

For films – especially dangerous underexposures, when not enough light hits the film.

From other point of view, matrix is “afraid” of overexposures, when excess of light hits the matrix, and we see white spots instead of the image.

These days almost all cameras have option, named “AUTO EXPOSURE BRACKETING”. In this mode camera automatically changes the exposure within a set range to take three shots after you press the shutter button once.

In “MANUAL” mode photographer can change pairs of values: shutter speed – aperture, leaving exposure invariable. For example, setting pairs of values shown below, we will not change total image exposure:

Shutter speed -------------- Aperture

500----------------------------2,8

250----------------------------4

125----------------------------5,6

60------------------------------8

30------------------------------11

Correct selection of pair – shutter speed – aperture – not only technical, but also creative way! For example, we may set shutter speed of 500 and aperture 2,8; or shutter speed 30 and aperture 11 in the same conditions, while shooting. In both cases amount of light, hitting the film or matrix, and accordingly exposure, will be the same. But – pictures will be very different in nature!
For example:
- using shutter speed 1/500 and aperture f/2,8 we may get very sharp image of moving object, but background will be blurry.
- using shutter speed 1/30 and f/11 we will get completely blurred image with a very sharp background.

As you see, different combination of the aperture and shutter speed can bring different result with the same exposure.

In Day 3 we will talk about Light metering modes, camera's “AUTO” modes and Depth of field.

If you would like to learn more about photography from the top experts and sharpen your skills and become the master of photography, you will find all necessary information here http://www.cbmall.com/to/photowizard

Photography. Very beginning. Main conceptions. Day 1

There is camera in each and every family – film or digital. Someone has it in his or her cupboard to get dusted, someone carries it everywhere and shoot everything. And who doesn't have the camera – make photos, using mobile phone.

You have made photos of your wife, children, your mother-in-low, your dog, cat, house and your car. But, what's next?
Maybe you have already heard words like: resolution, matrix, pixel and megapixel too! And you know, that modern phototechnique may do everything itself. But when we come closer to the needs of shooting quality and interesting photos, we start asking too many questions! Which camera should I buy? How could I shoot correctly variety of objects in different situations and what to do after with all of those images? What may I shoot?

Let's start our journey into amazing world of photography, world that will bring you unforgettable experiences and pleasure to be the Creator!

In Days 1 - 3 - just a brief tour about main conceptions in photography.

Cameras can be digital and film. And also main difference after this one - is that cameras can be SLR and nonSLR. When photographer uses nonSLR camera he looks through its view finder, but the light comes to the matrix or film through the lenses. It's fine, when you shoot the object from the distance, but when you come closer to the object and start shooting "micro", errors come. Because, you see through the view finder one area and matrix or film sees through the lenses very different area. This error has name parallax. Knowing this we need to do correction during close-up shooting.

And, without counting parallax matter, nonSLR cameras are very good piece of equipment!
When you use SLR camera, you look through the lenses in reality, and see what will be on the matrix or film. Because light comes through the lenses, then passes system of mirrors in the pentagonal prism, and, finally, comes out from view finder. This system allows you to use many types of lenses.
Film(analog) cameras can differ in types of film: 35mm - narrow film and 61mm - wide film.

Lens consists of system of lenses in hard casing. It is intended for image creation and focusing it to the film or matrix. Lens can be wide-angle, long-focus and normal-angle.

Wide-angle lenses make picture with wide coverage and are used during shooting interiors or people inside premises.
Long-focus lenses are meant to produce pictures from a distance, like sporting events or wild animals shooting.
Normal-angle lenses make image close to our usual visual perception.

Focal distance marked in mm:
- superwide-angle - 17-20 mm;
- wide-angle - 20-35 mm;
- normal-angle - 45-55 mm;
- portrait lenses - 85 mm;
- long-focus - 100-180 mm;
- telephoto - 200-1000 mm.

Lenses can be:
- with fixed focal distance;
- with variable focal distance.

Lens speed
All modern lens have high lens speed(aperture ratio). Lens speed can be measured with aperture opened to maximum and it's designated in fraction: 1:2; 1:2.8; 1:4. The less second number - the better! Theoretically lens speed can be 1.0, but it is only in case when there is no any light loss inside the lens system. According to this ratio, you can distinguish between amateur lens and professional lens. For instance, lenses with maximum aperture ratio 1.0; 1.4; 2.0; 2.8 considered to be professional and practically, you can make photos without tripod, using them, in any illumination with speed ISO 400-800. If you see lenses with ratio 3.5-3.8 or 4.0-5.6, obviously these are amateur lenses.

Aperture
Each lens(if you have SLR camera) marked with numbers. These are values of aperture. Aperture - it's a value of lens opening, when you make a photo. Those numbers can be: f/2,0; f/2,8; f/4; f/5,6; f/8; f/11; f/16; f/22. The bigger aperture value - the smaller the size of the lens openings, through which light enters the camera. For instance, aperture value f/2,0 - means opened lens and f/16 - closed. If you change aperture value for one step - quantity of the light, coming into the camera, increase or decrease two times.
For example, with opened aperture f/2,8 amount of light, entering the lens 2 times more than with aperture f/4, and 16 times more than f/11.
The more aperture is opened (f/2 or f/2,8) - the more light hit the matrix or film, the more possibilities for making photos in bad lightning conditions.
When we close aperture to values of f/11; f/16; f/22 - we are greatly decreasing amount of light, entering our camera.
It is very important to choose right value of aperture, because aperture is not only responsible for the amount of light, entering the camera, but also it allows us to make sharp all area of the image or it allows us to make important object to stand out against a background.
By opening the aperture, we allow more light enter our camera and at the same time we diffuse a background. And from the other side - when we close the aperture, we decrease amount of light, entering the camera, and at the same time we make sharp not only primary objects, but all area in the image.

In Day 2 we will discuss subjects about shutter speed and exposure.

If you would like to learn more about photography from the top experts and sharpen your skills and become the master of photography, you will find all necessary information here http://www.cbmall.com/to/photowizard