Photography. Very beginning. Main conceptions. Day 3

Light metering modes

Light metering - it is illumination or sunniness measuring of the object, which we want to make picture of. Exposure and quality of the future image highly depends on correct measurement of the light metering and you have to be very careful and treat this matter with great responsibility. If camera, you have, defines measurement type itself by default, probably it's not very expensive model, which will not allow you shoot excellent pictures in difficult light conditions.

What types of light measurement do we have?

Usually, there are three types of measurements.

For example, in common conditions, if all object is highlighted evenly, and there are no separate bright or dark areas, we use Evaluative Light Metering mode. In this mode the camera divides image into several zones for light metering. After that camera evaluates the complex lightning conditions, such as the position of the object, the brightness, the direct light, the background, and the backlighting, and adjusts the settings to the correct exposure for the main object. This mode is particularly well-suited for backlight conditions and general photography.

If you make portrait, you need to use Center – Weighted Averaging mode, when camera averages the exposure from the entire image, but places more weight on the subject at the center.

When you are shooting pictures at the theatre or ballet, for instance, when lights are down, and actor is lighted up, most useful in this case will be Spot AE Point mode. If you measure light through all of the area of the frame – you certainly will make it overexposed. When you work in difficult light conditions – you can't go without Spot AE Point mode.

Camera's auto modes

In many(if not all!) modern cameras provided auto modes, where pair of values – shutter speed & aperture set by the camera by default. When you change one value, another changes automatically, preserving correct exposure.

1. Av mode – Aperture priority

In this mode photographer specifies aperture and shutter speed changes automatically, according to the light conditions.

Advice

When doing portraits, you need to open aperture to values 2,8 or 4,0. When you are shooting
landscapes or interior – you need to close aperture to values 8 or 11, to get the best image sharpness.

2. Tv mode – Shutter Speed priority

Working with this mode, photographer sets the shutter speed, and aperture value changes automatically. Use this mode, while shooting images at the sport events. This mode also handy when you work with flash.

3. P – Program AE

Camera sets itself shutter speed & aperture. In some cameras photographer may change these pairs, controlling these changes in viewfinder.

4. M – Manual mode

In this mode everything depends on the photographer – you may set any values aperture – shutter speed and camera will advise you about correct light metering and what is the difference between necessary exposure and that, you have chosen.

Depth of field

With precise focusing on certain object there is always will be sharp not only that object in the image, but its surroundings. All other space can be blurry. And how much that surroundings will be blurry depends on Depth of field.

For example, if lens is focused on object, distant for 4 meters, and all other objects, located in front of that object and behind from 3 meters to 6 meters will be quite sharp – this area is depth of field.

Depth of field depends on chosen aperture. The more aperture is opened (values 2,8; 4), the smaller depth of field sharply pictured area. The more aperture is closed (values 5,6; 8; 11; 16), the more chances you have to get area with the same sharpness in front and behind the object.

Depth of field also depends on focal length. The more focal length has camera's lens, the longer lens, the smaller seeming depth of field.

For example, wide-angle lenses have practically sharp all image area, if you set aperture for values of 8 or 11 and focused lens for infinity. It is possible to focus lens on some hyperfocal point somewhere in the middle, and as a result – foreground and background will be sharp as well.

Advice

If you make photos at zoo through the cage, take long-focal lens, open aperture at maximum and come as close to the cage as possible. Focus your camera on the animal and cage will be gone to the blurred, almost invisible area.

With this article of Day 3 we finished our discussion about main conceptions in photography. After this, armed with the basic knowledge about cameras, we may continue our journey, and later we will talk about:

1. Right selection of the camera

2. Fundamentals of the composition in photography

3. Light and Colour in photography

4. How to use Flash in photography

5. How to shoot portraits

6. How to shoot landscapes and animate nature

7. How to do picture story

8. How to shoot images at night

9. How to make pictures of the sporting events

10. How to make photos at the theatre

11. How to store and organize your photo-archive

12. How to sell your photos online and earn pretty good revenue

and much more...

If you would like to learn more about photography from the top experts and sharpen your skills and become the master of photography, you will find all necessary information here http://www.cbmall.com/to/photowizard

Photography. Very beginning. Main conceptions. Day 2

Shutter speed
Shutter speed – it is shutter's opening time, during which image of the real world hits the matrix or film. Usually it is very short time and it is measured in fractions of a second and marked in this way:

Designation --------------- Fractions of a second

2 ---------------------------1/2

4 ---------------------------1/4

8 ---------------------------1/8

15 --------------------------1/15

30 --------------------------1/30

60 --------------------------1/60

125 ------------------------1/125

250 ------------------------1/250

500 ------------------------1/500

1000-----------------------1/1000

2000-----------------------1/2000

Advice

It is well known from the experience, that using shutter speed more than 1/30 of a second, photographer – beginner can get blurry image, because of shaking camera in inexperienced hands. In this case you should apply general rule for setting up the shutter speed:

In order to avoid getting blurred image, shutter speed must approximately correspond to focal distance of the lens or be even shorter.

For instance, for lens with focal distance 200 mm shutter speed must be no longer than 1/200, must be set to values of 200; 250; 500 or shorter.

If you work with lens that has 20 mm (wide-angle), you may shoot, using shutter speed 1/15 – 1/30 of a second and shorter, i.e. with values 15; 30; 60; 125.

It' s advice only, and if you hold your camera firmly in hands and push button smoothly – probably, you could make photos of people with lens 200 mm in focal distance and shutter speed 1/15 of a second. But in this case your picture will be blurry anyway, and this is due to the movements of the objects of your photo, in this example – people.

Exposure
Exposure – it is quantity of light, hitting the film or matrix, during opening time of the shutter, i.e. during the set time of the shutter speed and aperture.

Correct exposure – it is very important matter! It defines quality of the negative or file. If you shoot in “AUTO” settings – exposure computed by camera itself, measuring illumination of an object and comparing it with speed(sensitivity) of the film or matrix.

With the correct exposure we have the best quality of the image and photosensitive material reproduces all details, both in shades and spotlit areas. In the cases of mistakes – underexposure and overexposure – these details can be lost forever.

For films – especially dangerous underexposures, when not enough light hits the film.

From other point of view, matrix is “afraid” of overexposures, when excess of light hits the matrix, and we see white spots instead of the image.

These days almost all cameras have option, named “AUTO EXPOSURE BRACKETING”. In this mode camera automatically changes the exposure within a set range to take three shots after you press the shutter button once.

In “MANUAL” mode photographer can change pairs of values: shutter speed – aperture, leaving exposure invariable. For example, setting pairs of values shown below, we will not change total image exposure:

Shutter speed -------------- Aperture

500----------------------------2,8

250----------------------------4

125----------------------------5,6

60------------------------------8

30------------------------------11

Correct selection of pair – shutter speed – aperture – not only technical, but also creative way! For example, we may set shutter speed of 500 and aperture 2,8; or shutter speed 30 and aperture 11 in the same conditions, while shooting. In both cases amount of light, hitting the film or matrix, and accordingly exposure, will be the same. But – pictures will be very different in nature!
For example:
- using shutter speed 1/500 and aperture f/2,8 we may get very sharp image of moving object, but background will be blurry.
- using shutter speed 1/30 and f/11 we will get completely blurred image with a very sharp background.

As you see, different combination of the aperture and shutter speed can bring different result with the same exposure.

In Day 3 we will talk about Light metering modes, camera's “AUTO” modes and Depth of field.

If you would like to learn more about photography from the top experts and sharpen your skills and become the master of photography, you will find all necessary information here http://www.cbmall.com/to/photowizard

Photography. Very beginning. Main conceptions. Day 1

There is camera in each and every family – film or digital. Someone has it in his or her cupboard to get dusted, someone carries it everywhere and shoot everything. And who doesn't have the camera – make photos, using mobile phone.

You have made photos of your wife, children, your mother-in-low, your dog, cat, house and your car. But, what's next?
Maybe you have already heard words like: resolution, matrix, pixel and megapixel too! And you know, that modern phototechnique may do everything itself. But when we come closer to the needs of shooting quality and interesting photos, we start asking too many questions! Which camera should I buy? How could I shoot correctly variety of objects in different situations and what to do after with all of those images? What may I shoot?

Let's start our journey into amazing world of photography, world that will bring you unforgettable experiences and pleasure to be the Creator!

In Days 1 - 3 - just a brief tour about main conceptions in photography.

Cameras can be digital and film. And also main difference after this one - is that cameras can be SLR and nonSLR. When photographer uses nonSLR camera he looks through its view finder, but the light comes to the matrix or film through the lenses. It's fine, when you shoot the object from the distance, but when you come closer to the object and start shooting "micro", errors come. Because, you see through the view finder one area and matrix or film sees through the lenses very different area. This error has name parallax. Knowing this we need to do correction during close-up shooting.

And, without counting parallax matter, nonSLR cameras are very good piece of equipment!
When you use SLR camera, you look through the lenses in reality, and see what will be on the matrix or film. Because light comes through the lenses, then passes system of mirrors in the pentagonal prism, and, finally, comes out from view finder. This system allows you to use many types of lenses.
Film(analog) cameras can differ in types of film: 35mm - narrow film and 61mm - wide film.

Lens consists of system of lenses in hard casing. It is intended for image creation and focusing it to the film or matrix. Lens can be wide-angle, long-focus and normal-angle.

Wide-angle lenses make picture with wide coverage and are used during shooting interiors or people inside premises.
Long-focus lenses are meant to produce pictures from a distance, like sporting events or wild animals shooting.
Normal-angle lenses make image close to our usual visual perception.

Focal distance marked in mm:
- superwide-angle - 17-20 mm;
- wide-angle - 20-35 mm;
- normal-angle - 45-55 mm;
- portrait lenses - 85 mm;
- long-focus - 100-180 mm;
- telephoto - 200-1000 mm.

Lenses can be:
- with fixed focal distance;
- with variable focal distance.

Lens speed
All modern lens have high lens speed(aperture ratio). Lens speed can be measured with aperture opened to maximum and it's designated in fraction: 1:2; 1:2.8; 1:4. The less second number - the better! Theoretically lens speed can be 1.0, but it is only in case when there is no any light loss inside the lens system. According to this ratio, you can distinguish between amateur lens and professional lens. For instance, lenses with maximum aperture ratio 1.0; 1.4; 2.0; 2.8 considered to be professional and practically, you can make photos without tripod, using them, in any illumination with speed ISO 400-800. If you see lenses with ratio 3.5-3.8 or 4.0-5.6, obviously these are amateur lenses.

Aperture
Each lens(if you have SLR camera) marked with numbers. These are values of aperture. Aperture - it's a value of lens opening, when you make a photo. Those numbers can be: f/2,0; f/2,8; f/4; f/5,6; f/8; f/11; f/16; f/22. The bigger aperture value - the smaller the size of the lens openings, through which light enters the camera. For instance, aperture value f/2,0 - means opened lens and f/16 - closed. If you change aperture value for one step - quantity of the light, coming into the camera, increase or decrease two times.
For example, with opened aperture f/2,8 amount of light, entering the lens 2 times more than with aperture f/4, and 16 times more than f/11.
The more aperture is opened (f/2 or f/2,8) - the more light hit the matrix or film, the more possibilities for making photos in bad lightning conditions.
When we close aperture to values of f/11; f/16; f/22 - we are greatly decreasing amount of light, entering our camera.
It is very important to choose right value of aperture, because aperture is not only responsible for the amount of light, entering the camera, but also it allows us to make sharp all area of the image or it allows us to make important object to stand out against a background.
By opening the aperture, we allow more light enter our camera and at the same time we diffuse a background. And from the other side - when we close the aperture, we decrease amount of light, entering the camera, and at the same time we make sharp not only primary objects, but all area in the image.

In Day 2 we will discuss subjects about shutter speed and exposure.

If you would like to learn more about photography from the top experts and sharpen your skills and become the master of photography, you will find all necessary information here http://www.cbmall.com/to/photowizard